Tag Archives: Tas

Review: Tas on The Cut

2 Aug

One of the most heart-breaking things about London is the omnipresence of chain eateries. From the 12 Pret-a-Manger outlets along the Number 19 bus route between Finsbury Park and Kensington, to Gordon Ramsey’s eponymous restaurants which seem to self-multiply in a disturbing Fantasia-broomstick-esque manner – it’s too much of an (often not quite) good thing.

One exception to the rule is Tas. When Man Woman first came across Tas, we did think it was a fantastic little find. Much like when I first got to France and thought I had stumbled across a fantastic little boulangerie run by Paul. Alack, Tas too is a chain (and Paul is shit).

But there are chains, and there are chains.

Tas on The Cut looks far posher than it is – or maybe it’s just that Man Woman is unused to eating on anything but plastic-coated table cloths or the wallpaper we scavanged from someone’s front yard dump. Does tend to skew your perspective somewhat.

Tas – all of the Tases actually – is a place we love almost despite itself. After abandoning fish from the menu, I have to honestly say that the food is basic, sometimes lacking the flavour intensity the dishes visually insinuate. But this is the kind of place where reading the menu is excitement enough (eg. leeks, chickpeas and lentils with couscous and yoghurt with pomegranate), the eating of it is almost a superfluous experience.

It’s the only place in London that does Turkish bread that in anyway resembles the glory that is Turkish bread in Australia (and, I’m assuming, Turkey) and the good armies of waitstaff provide the bread, olives and some rather delicious yoghurt dip free and frequently.

The dishes themselves are massive, ranging from bulgur kofte to some dish involving both grapes and cheddar cheese and which is oddly kinda yum. Dishes to avoid (as a veggie) would be the Mantar (a sizeable pyramid of mushrooms topped with a flavourless white cheese). My main tonight, patlicanli – a smoked aubergine puree, couscous and yoghurt, lacked any actual texture apart from ‘soft’, but something tells me I’ll one day end up eating it again anyway, thus is the draw of Tas.

Tas on the Cut, though, is definitely worth a wander to. You’ll have no idea why you love it.

Oh, and at all times: keep away the house wine.

Price per head: generous veggie mains start at £7.45, set menus start at £9.95.  We regularly spend around £15 a head

Friendliness to veggies: 9/10

Overall rating: 8/10, but I don’t know why

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